2 Days in Tsushima, Japan – Fall Foliage, Ocean Views & Local Eats

At the end of November 2024, I took a short but memorable 2-day trip to Tsushima with a colleague from work. Having lived in Ulsan previously, I had visited Tsushima multiple times thanks to its close proximity to Busan and affordable ferry rides. This time, our goal was simple: enjoy the last of the autumn leaves and unwind.

🛳 Getting There – The Ferry Experience

We boarded the ferry from Busan to Hitakatsu, one of the two main ports in Tsushima (the other being Izuhara). Several companies operate on this route, including Beetle (Daea), Kobee (Mirejet), and Nina. Travel time ranges from 70 to 110 minutes depending on your destination.
Reserve your ferry here .

Unfortunately, the waves were rough that day, and I experienced severe seasickness. I hadn’t eaten anything, which turned out to be a blessing, but I deeply regretted not taking motion sickness medicine. Even my motion sickness glasses couldn’t help. Thankfully, after disembarking and resting a bit, I felt much better.

🍜 First Stop – Ramen, Then Rental Car

Once we landed and caught our breath, we went for ramen — because what’s a trip to Japan without a hot bowl of ramen? It totally hit the spot. Luckily, my international driver’s permit from our honeymoon in 2023 was still valid, so we rented a small pink kei car.

🍁 Fall Colors, Ginkgo Giants, and the Roadside Charm

Our first destination was Momiji Road, famous for its fall foliage. Some parts were fully colored, especially where sunlight hit, while others remained green. Along the way, we passed beautiful pampas grass dancing in the wind. The peace and quiet of Tsushima, the shimmering ocean, and that late-autumn light made everything feel like a painting.

We also stopped at an ancient ginkgo tree — said to be over 500 years old, standing 30 meters tall with a 6-meter circumference. Golden leaves lay thick around the base, creating a magical scene.

⛩ Watatsumi Shrine & (Failed) Eboshidake Visit

Next, we stopped at Watatsumi Shrine, known for its iconic torii gate submerged in water. It's beautiful, especially at high tide. We then tried heading to Eboshidake Observatory — but the road was closed due to typhoon damage. Disappointed but determined, we decided to drive all the way down to Izuhara instead.

🍱 Izuhara Eats – Shokudo Grandma’s Kitchen

In Izuhara, we found a cozy local eatery run by elderly women. We ordered champon (seafood noodle soup) and a fluffy omelet. It was comforting and delicious — simple Japanese homestyle food with heart.

🏨 Oceanview Stay – Toyoko Inn Hitakatsu

We stayed at Toyoko Inn in Hitakatsu — newly opened, clean, and incredibly affordable with breakfast included. The highlight? A jaw-dropping ocean view right from our window.
Book your stay here .

🌊 Morning Calm – Miuda Beach & the Korea Viewpoint

The next morning, the public bath was closed (Monday!), so we headed straight to Miuda Beach. With a cup of coffee and Tsushima’s famous red bean bun in hand, we sat on a bench and soaked in the serenity.

We then made our way to the Korea Viewpoint. I’ve been to Tsushima over five times, but this place never gets old. The view of Korea across the sea is surreal. We rested there before heading back down and returning our rental car.

🍣 Sushi Finale & Final Shopping

For our last meal, we stopped by a sushi restaurant near the ferry terminal. While Tsushima is known for anago (eel), we went with a sushi set this time. After lunch, we visited Value Mart for souvenirs and ferry snacks.

Our 2-day trip to Tsushima was short, scenic, and soul-refreshing. Between fall foliage, coastal views, and warm bowls of ramen and champon, it was just what we needed.

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